Ultreia Godello

The 2023 Ultreia Godello, mostly from the zone of Cacabelos, and the vineyards have been transformed to organic. This is an unusual wine for this bottling because the fermentation was very slow (nine months) and without temperature control, and the wine went through malolactic—it's the first white he bottled with full malolactic. Most (70%) of the wine was in large stainless steel and the rest in used barriques. This seems to be happening again in 2024. It has a golden color and a ripe nose of yellow fruit and a round, tender mouthfeel with a bitter twist in the finish and a dry, chalky feeling. This is the most Burgundian of the whites here. They produced close to 50,000 bottles.

The white 2022 Ultreia Godello is a blend of five different plots, most of them in Cacabelos. It has a very expressive nose, with notes of yellow fruit, flowers and white pepper. It's round and fleshy, with moderate ripeness and alcohol (around 12.5%), a little balsamic with the tender mouthfeel from the riper year. It had different vinifications and élevages and comes through as complex and balanced, quite impressive for the year. 45,000 bottles produced.

Fine, lightly smoky, with real depth and persistence. It's great, that Godello grape in the right hands! Structure for further ageing but confident fruit on the palate. Dry wine but far from drying. Those who have yet to discover Spain's answer to white burgundy are in for a treat. The freshest lemon-syrup suggestion on the end but not a sweet syrup! Persistent. This is almost a 17...