Noval Vintage Nacional Port

The 2022 Vintage Port Nacional was produced with grapes from ungrafted vines, not pre-phylloxera, as you might read elsewhere, as these are relatively young vines from two vineyards planted with a field blend of Touriga Francesa, Tinto Cão, Touriga Nacional, Sousão (some 15% in the field blend) and Tinta Roriz. It's produced in exactly the same way as the other Vintage Port, in granite lagars and aged in old casks for 18 months. It has 19.5% alcohol, a pH of 3.67 and 86 grams of sugar, quite similar parameters to the regular Vintage Port from the same vintage, and it's quite low in sugar compared with other years. But the wine is more backward, with more detail, and it's more serious, with lots of complexity. The tannins and the sweetness compensate each other; there's a lot of depth, concentration and power but in a very harmonious way. I think this has better balance and more elegance than other recent vintages. It opens slowly in the glass to give classical notes of candied violets and rockrose and a lactic hint. It should age effortlessly for 50 years. 1,920 bottles were filled in May 2024.

The 2017 Vintage Port Nacional is a field blend, mostly Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinto Cão, Sousão and Tinta Roriz, aged for 18 months in old wood. It comes in at 99 grams of residual sugar and was bottled about a month before this tasting after 18 months in wooden vats. In 2016, I might've made an argument that the regular Noval was better. In this vintage, this seems to be a clear choice, granting that Ports change constantly in their youth. Its siblings at all levels in the last few vintages are very fine, but this is an indisputable benchmark that seems to better them all. Rich and vibrant, this has plenty of stuffing and flavor, more than the regular Noval. Then, it adds layer after layer of power. A couple of hours of air makes both the flavors and tannins more intense. It is simply gripping—yet also remarkably fresh. It's a great Noval, and one of the shortlist candidates for "Wine of the Vintage." There were 200 cases produced.