We're venturing into the recently created (2010) Sierra de Salamanca PDO. Here, in an area declared a Biosphere Reserve by Unesco, vines have been cultivated for centuries, on terraces overlooking the River Alagón at altitudes ranging from 400 to 1,000 metres. On soils of varying composition (sand derived from granite, clay and slate), the six grape varieties authorised by the denomination grow to maturity. Just five wineries work on this land covered in grapes, among which features the indigenous Rufete.
This grape, with its small compact clusters, is prone to disease due to its delicate skin. Yet at the same time, it's this fragility which enables it to deliver subtle wines full of delicacy, with aromas of woodland fruits and sweet tannins. It seems to have a distant genetic connection with the Pinot Noir, a grape with which it has certain similarities, such as spicy hints and a paler colour.
At Vinos La Zorra, Olga Martín and Agustín Maillo, both natives of this land with its long wine-producing tradition, make wines brimming with personality, employing the knowledge that has passed down through generations as well as the opportunities provided by new technology. At the Mogarraz winery they carry out production on a small scale, with an output of just over 50,000 bottles. Their land is divided into small parcels with plantations of bush vines on the three types of soil typically found in the region. The unusual name of Vinos La Zorra, as you may have already guessed, originates from the fable about the fox (zorra) and the grapes.
The wine presented here is the so-called Raro, a 100% Rufete. In its production, after a light cold pre-maceration, the must ferments using wild yeasts at a controlled temperature. After a malolactic fermentation, it spends around 9 months in second-year barrels. It appears a lovely purple-violet colour, with slight density and agile tears. Flowers and hints of red-berry fruits dominate on the nose, with lactic aromas (cream and yogurt) in the background. On the palate it's juicy and fresh, a real luscious delight. Its delicate feel and lively acidity are fused with balsamic traces of scrubland bushes. It has a very elegant finish, dominated by the spices and fruit yet dry. It would benefit from being served at a cool temperature and most especially, after a good aeration.
