Samuel Billaud 1er Cru Les Vaillons V. Vignes

A particular success, the 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons Vieilles Vignes unwinds to reveal notions of grapefruit, dried white flowers, freshly baked bread and oyster shell. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's taut and chiseled, with racy acids and chalky structure, concluding with a penetrating finish.

A little more subdued on the nose compared with the Montmains but you can sense the depth here. Citrus veering to just-ripe pear. Firm, even a little bit chewy, and so moreish. There's plenty of lees texture giving added richness to the deep fruit. Impressive.